Finally, we have had enough sleep and Elida and I awake early. Maria greeted us and asked, "Would you like to go to Santiago later after Oscar's tennis match?" We were thrilled to get to see yet another part of Spain. Maria and Paz were off to drop Oscar and go to the market so Elida and I set out for a run.
We went for a long run down to the point, around the tip and back up. It was perhaps my favorite run ever. The day was overcast but the sun seemed to be trying to sneak through the clouds. The air was cooler but not cold. We passed by chickens in yards, gardens, fruit trees, grape vines and blackberry bushes. We once again gazed while running at the rocks in the water and those along the coast. The ones in the water were flat and seemed smooth from this distance while those on the shore were jagged and sharp jutting high. We climbed back up the hill and I felt renewed as a run always does for me.
Oscar would be driving us to Santiago and the end of the Camino, which I long to follow soon. We were to meet Javier at the Church of St. James where St. James also known as Santiago was buried. As we entered the city we could see the top of the church steeples impressively commanding on the hill. We saw pilgrims hiking the streets headed to the church, tired from their long journey. We walked along a dirt path down a small hill that led to cobblestone streets, past rows of white houses with red tiled roofs and black or green balconies and then back up towards the church looming on the horizon. We passed a branch of Oscar's university and posed for another silly picture. We walked to the square and our breath was taken away. This massive structure had such intricate details, etchings, layers. It was not smooth like the dome of the Vatican. It was dramatic and different. While Elida and I snapped photos Maria and Paz disappeared.
A little disoriented we looked around and finally spotted Oscar who explained the women were arranging a tour. These generous ladies surprised us by securing a tour for us on the rooftop of the Church of St. James. Elida and I were speechless.
Javier met us and led us through the streets of his neighborhood, which was very near the church, to a cafe with a lovely garden for lunch. We passed by a bagpiper, traditional for this area of Spain, playing beautifully and tossed him a coin or two. We dined under a magnolia tree, twisted trunk, blossoms fading, leaves green and shinny. We each ordered the lunch of the day, at Javier's suggestion. There were several choices. I selected fish, salad, red wine and lemon pie which turned out to be pudding. The fish was served whole with buttered potatoes. The salad was filled with onions, corn, carrots and tomatoes. The wine had a rich, thick taste. The fish was buttered but light. The lemon pie, no crust, was tart, smooth and white like meringue. The meal was perfect.
We headed to the church and began our tour in the basement interior of the cathedral. Our guide was speaking fast in Spanish and I couldn't keep up so I explored while she talked. Up the stairs we climbed to the rooftop, rock slated and stepped as if meant for walking. From the top the view was magnificent, the city stretched out below and the towers of the cathedral stretched to the sky even from the rooftop. We took endless pictures from up on the roof. The church bells clang as if to signal that we must depart and so we descend the stairs into the overlook of the sanctuary. The sanctuary is large and beautiful with high arched ceilings and painted walls. Smaller sanctuaries line the main hall. The alter is large and intricately detailed with angels. Priests line the walls waiting for confession. One, so old and crooked in his small house-like structure with just one chair and a kneeling bench for parishioners, looks as if he is ready to go home to God. His head hangs to the side and his back is arched softly.
From the sanctuary we are able to see the painted ceilings and the intricate carvings that line the entryway. The detailed carvings depict saints, apostles and scenes from the Bible. The cross balanced on top of a ram was common on the rooftop and is a great reminder of his shepherding of our souls. There is a pole that has Jesus descending into hell reaching out to bring the saved to heaven.
We follow the tradition of this church. St. James may not actually be buried here but the church was certainly built in his honor. There is a statue of James behind the alter and you hug him and say a prayer. People also leave money at the tomb below. We say our prayers, pass by the tomb and continue to the original chapel. It is small and yet still dramatic. It is connected to the other sanctuary by a set of steps. This cathedral was built in stages and each addition changed it. Each era of architecture also changed it and so there are representations of Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque.
We finish our tour and head back out to the square where Javier has Elida, Maria and I lay down and gaze up backwards at the church. He does not allow us to take pictures. We are instead just meant to take it in from this different vantage point. We are even more in awe.
We walk back towards his house and by this time Sylvia is off work and has joined us again. Their apartment is perfectly decorated with wonderful artistic pieces that really key into their fun personalities. It looks out on another square and church, a beautiful view for doing dishes. We end the evening with heartfelt goodbyes and drive back to the house on the sea for one last night of rest. Tomorrow we head to Italy, refreshed, filled up in love, kindness and experiences. Spain will never be the same again as when seen through the eyes of these new friends. Paz gives us one piece of advice before we continue on our journey, "Look for a rich man, forget about the looks." We laugh.
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