A man enters, notices me on the way in, orders and on his way out looks me over again. I smile because it feels great and he is handsome. He goes outside and then comes back in one more time, smiles, winks and leaves to enjoy his coffee. By this time the music is making me sway. I can't seem to keep still. An Italian song is playing and I am immediately captured by it. The bartender is singing, of course. I grab my notebook and tell Bruno I am going to ask him to write down the name of the song for me. As I walk up to him he is dancing by himself to what is obviously a love song. I grab his hand and dance with him. He smiles, laughs, sings, dances and then says this isn't a disco. He writes the name of the song down and then says he will play it again for us. He is Albanian and tall, dark and handsome. It never gets old!
Since he can't dance, I teach Elida some two-step. We dance in that coffee shop while old men linger and watch. Elida and I are in such a joyful place and it is spreading throughout the cafe. The bartender watches us as we dance with one another. He keeps repeating the song which is called Uomini Di Gomma by Studio 3. I have listened to it almost daily since returning from Italy.
We have finished and it is time to move on but I am sad to be leaving our music. As we walk out the door the Albanian Goodness, as we have titled him, shouts after Elida. "Your sister, I love your sister." I turn and wave. Father Bruno leans over, "Heather, they are open until 10 if you want to come back."
With music in our heads we walk and grab my ticket for the shuttle and then head to Camp Michelangelo. We were planning on going to Fiesole but we have lingered too long in the cafe and were late getting started.
Camp Michelangelo sits overlooking the city of Florence. There is a huge replica of David in the parking lot. There are street musicians playing and vendors selling their wears and souvenirs. There is a couple that has obviously just met and is not ready to leave one another kissing each other without breathing at the overlook. It is a romantic spot but I am certain they have not seen any of it. We walk down the way a bit.
Bruno immediately begins to sketch as Elida and I take in the view and have a few photos. We sway to the music and breathe in the evening air. The sun is beginning to set over the river to the west. Bruno points out the old city wall which was constructed, he says, by Michelangelo. We can see the Duomo, the Uffizi, the Tower and the hills overlooking Florence. The bridges that span the Arno look graceful, yet strong. We stroll down the steps back into town and once again there are the stations of the cross. I ask Father Bruno about them. These steps are old and so are the stations. The steps are wide and while the hill is not as steep as the one I climbed in Sora last year, it could still be enough to make a person appreciate their faith.
At the bottom of the steps is an inscription by Dante explaining that the steps were created when, "the people were free, the economy was good and the judges were fair." This, according to Dante, is when a city can prosper and only in this situation can a people prosper.
We wind through the neighborhood at the base of the steps looking for a place to eat. There are signs in remembrance of the 1966 flood of the Arno River. The river rose to unbelievable depths. It killed many and damaged precious art and cultural pieces. There are stories of some saving the art while risking their own lives. It was considered tragic on a human and cultural scale. Father Bruno makes sure to point it out and explain.
We continue towards the river because all of the restaurants are full, heading instead to another haunt of Bruno's. Tucked away on a quiet street is a deli. On one side of the street is the closed in portion with slabs of meat hanging, on the other side is an open air deli where you can order sandwiches. They also have several self-serve items, most notable, self-serve wine. It is 2 Euro per glass. There are bites of sandwiches as well and they are cheap. We each have a glass of wine and one bite of sandwich. We are still looking to sit for dinner. The sandwiches are divine.
We walk on and of course Elida and I are dancing once again while walking. A bald man on a bike pauses to appreciate our efforts. We smile graciously and he smiles back.
Dinner is good but not the best. The bruschetta is a small slice of heaven. We have wine and water and share pasta dishes. When we finish we are all ready for a stroll. Father Bruno convinces us that we should have a shot of Limoncello. We walk into a bar order a shot and drool over what looks to be an exquisite piece of tiramisu. The bartender tells us it is homemade and Elida and I say, bring it on. He tells us his story while we enjoy, and I do mean thoroughly enjoy, the tiramisu. It is so good and with every bite Elida and I vocalize our appreciation. The bartender continues his work telling us about his girlfriend and their visit to America and how much they would like to go back. When we finish he gives Bruno the bill for the liquor and then tells Elida and I the tiramisu is free because he enjoyed watching us eating it so much. We giggle and thank him.
We stroll for along time tonight taking in the city at night. We stop into yet another cafe. Bruno and Elida grab another espresso and there is yet again music playing that doesn't allow my body to stop. The owner of the shop is sitting at a table and he smiles as he watches me and then begins to sing. Finally we return to the apartment. Father Bruno says he is turning in. We are free to do as we please. I have to be at the shuttle at 5:30 am. Elida and I debate whether to turn in or go out. She is chatting with Francesco and I tell her to ask him for his opinion. I really was figuring he would say stay in because he is logically but he says we have to go out. It is my last night in Italy and I am meant to enjoy it until the final minutes. I work on packing and Elida says, "Tomorrow you will be back in Prineville." That was all it took. I was throwing on my new clothes, freshly purchased in Florence and my new sexy shoes. We agreed that we wouldn't go too far since we would have to return to get my luggage. We walked out the door and around the corner and immediately heard some Salsa music playing. We were hooked and in we walked to a bar full of people, some dancing, others visiting.
This place looked a little more like the United States. The bar was typical, u-shaped with glasses hanging above and liquor lining the walls. There were several rooms but the dancing was happening up above so we headed there. Elida immediately was scooped up to dance. I watched and it wasn't long until a handsome Italian man named Franco stole me away to dance. He had the most romantic, seductive dance moves. Him and I were immediately in sync. My hips matched his, my step back was paired to his step back. His hands guided me seamlessly. My senses were on fire. I love to dance. Elida's partner had changed and I noticed Franco had a friend who was standing alone. I asked Elida to dance with him and she agreed. He was not as skilled on the dance-floor as Franco so when Elida headed to the restroom I showed him a few moves, swing moves of course. He was ready when she came back. We were all four dancing and laughing and having the greatest time. My new Italian shoes made me about four-inches taller and they were great for dancing.
The tiramisu I had enjoyed earlier was not staying with me for long. Franco and I were sweating, rarely taking a break. His shirt stuck to his muscular frame etching the edges of perfectly sculpted biceps, chest and back. He pulled me in and twirled me back out enticing me with his green eyes. He soon asked if we would like to go to another club. It was only another block away so we agreed. This club had more modern music instead of Salsa. We grabbed a quick drink and then headed back out on the dance floor. I taught a few more swing moves to everyone, my favorite is when the man picks up the girl and swings her from hip to hip and then the center. Franco was a quick study, he had me in an instant swinging and then suddenly I was up in the air above his head twirling around, screaming Arrivederci Italia! He brought me back down the front of him slowly and followed it with a kiss, a passionate, heart-felt kiss. We were praised by others out on the dance floor. Valerio, Elida's partner, said everyone else was afraid to dance because we were so good. As we glanced around there were others stepping but not really dancing. We laugh again and dance more.
By the end of the evening I am soaked from head to toe in sweat. I feel amazing as if I have been on Dancing with the Stars or maybe a touch of Dirty Dancing. I have been kissed a billion times and held in powerful arms and I am not ready to leave. Franco and Valerio walk us back to the apartment and we say our goodbyes. Franco stands at the end of the street and watches as I walk in, Valerio does the same with Elida. The sun is beginning to rise as they turn. Elida will see them again the next day but I may not ever see them again. It is a bittersweet departure. Several more days with Franco would have been amazing. I take a shower, change clothes and we drag my luggage to the station for the last time this trip.
Elida and I sit and wait for the bus to arrive. We are close to tears. This trip has made us sisters more than we could have imagined. We have shared, shopped and sincerely prayed our way across Spain and Italy. We have made new friends, contemplated life, shared our struggles and released some of our pain. It has been an exhilarating whirlwind and my soul is full. I will go home with a renewed love for my life and blessings and an appreciation for the beauty of meeting new people and encountering new cultures.
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| Father Bruno, Elida and I |
| Copy of the David |
| Newly created sisters |
| Florence from Camp Michelangelo |
| The Old City Wall |
| Best view of the Duomo |
| Sunset on the Arno |
| Self-serve wine anyone? |
| Bruschetta at Osteria |
| Franco, beautiful Franco and I dancing the night away |
Link to my favorite Italian song played in a cafe in Florence. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn0rFITBXUw

