Sunday, August 23, 2015

Jungle equals rain, just so you know

I was convinced to go to the jungle by the group I toured Quito with on day one.  I hadn't planned this for my time in Ecuador but they made such a good case.  I teach World Cultures and in the jungle I would meet an indigenous tribe. I would be exposed to their customs and traditions.  Since I don't teach ancient history the ruins I was planning to go and see became less important.

The trip to the jungle either required an overnight bus ride or a plane ride from Quito.  I wanted to save time and the flight was cheap so I hopped a plane and headed to Lago Agrio.  The flight was short and as we landed the weather changed from sunny and warm in Quito to torrential downpours and warmish.  As we disembarked there were men with machine guns and a man handing us an umbrella.  The machine guns were, as it turns out, to protect people from drug runners.  The umbrellas were something I would wish I had the whole time I was in the jungle along with my own rain jacket which I didn't pack because I wasn't going to the jungle.

At the airport we were met by a bus and loaded up to head to the jungle.  As we drove our guide told us about the area but he mostly spoke of the pipeline which ran next to the road.  This pipeline has had such drastic effects on the area.  The area we were headed to is a national park however, the government allowed oil drilling in the national park.  The drilling and subsequent piping was great for the economy but environmentally it has been a disaster.

The pipeline has polluted the rivers, the groundwater and the soil.  The people of the area have been made ill because of this but their lives have not been protected.  The native tribes were not allowed a say in the drilling and the contact with the outside world has been damaging to them as well.  As if the oil was not enough there were also large swaths of deforested areas.  Our guide explained that the people take down the trees, till the field to plant things like bananas but the soil isn't good for growing them so they continue to have to take down more trees and repeat the process.  While I was there the road to Quito was washed out because of landslides and the landslides were attributed to deforestation and the torrential rains that have been hitting as a result of global warming. I teach about these topics but to see it for myself was stunning and heartbreaking.

After two hours we arrived at the river which we would follow into the jungle.  We were served a nice lunch while our luggage was loaded onto a boat and covered with huge heavy tarps.  As we at it poured and poured.  We were given rain jackets for the boat ride thankfully.  I was given a seat in the front of the boat and tried my best to get my rain poncho into a position to keep me dry.  Once everyone was loaded we took off down the river.  Our goal would be to spot animals along the way.  Our guide spoke Spanish but he was easy to understand because he spoke slowly and he was talking about animals so I could figure things out.  On the way in we spotted some monkeys in the treetops.  I learned quickly how difficult it is to photograph a monkey. They move quickly and are so far away because the trees are so tall.  In this jungle there were 7 types of monkeys and on my jungle adventure I would be lucky enough to see 6 of them.  It was pouring so hard on the boat ride in that we didn't stop much.  Each time we did whatever water had puddled on my rain poncho ended up draining onto some new part of me that had previously been dry.  By the time we made it to the lodge I was soaked.

The lodge was nestled along the river and next door to another lodge.  We were told it was siesta time and in a few hours we would go out again.  Siesta would not be my friend during this jungle time.  Usually I can deal with siesta by walking, swimming or hiking through it.  But in the jungle all I could do was sit in a hammock and read.  I was very anxious and on edge the whole time.  There was no way to leave the lodge grounds.  I was trapped in my own personal siesta hell.  I just don't have the personality for it.  I listened to the rain which made me even more crazy.  I was going to have to figure out how to enjoy this time.  Day one's lesson: Poverty leads to devastation but so does wealth.





Sunday, August 2, 2015

The Grass-covered Pasochoa Mountain in the Andes

This place makes me want to abandon my work life and live off the grid but not necessarily here.  It is inspiring to look around and see how people sustain themselves without the need for modernity.  The most significant problem I have with this plan is I would still need money to travel to other places in the world and homeschooling the boys would be difficult and likely unwelcome.

The mountains surrounding Cotopaxi are covered in a thick layer of grasses all the way to the top.  The grasses wave in the wind and look like the rolling sea.  I am surrounded by these mountains and farms at unheard of elevations but this is near the equator and things are different.  Where I am staying they mainly grow herbs but as we drove in I couldn't believe the variety.

Today we have all sat down to fill up on a good breakfast so that we could prepare our bodies to hike Pasochoa.  This mountain stands at 4,220 meters, translation 13, 845 feet.  It will be a challenge for sure but I feel up to it.  So far I have adjusted to the elevation but hiking with sustained exerted effort will be more difficult.  We are promised a snack of banana cake and tea at the top plus views of the Valley of the Volcanoes.

We start out the hike in the same direction of the waterfall hike from the previous day but this time we stay up on top of the ridge.  We still hike through forest and banks of clay carved deeply for walking. At times the sides are up to my shoulders.  There are tiny berries ripening which the locals love to come and harvest.  They are like a huckleberry or blueberry but the bush they grow on looks entirely different and they are not as sweet. The branches of the trees are draped with mosses and other unusual plants like bromeliads.  

As we emerge from the forest we are high on the hillside overlooking the valley of Cotopaxi.  We hike along an ancient Incan canal still in use by the local farmers.  Below us we can see the canyon of the waterfall and a third waterfall along the same waterway we hiked the previous day.  For this view the canyon is so deep you would have no idea what lies within. Along the canal are little shrubs and above hills of grasses.  A creature slips into the canal for a swim, a rodent of some kind.  Later on in the hike the dogs who have come with us, a dalmatian and dachshund will chase rabbits up this steep mountain.  Our guide tells us when they catch something the locals love to cook it up.  The canal portion was the easiest part of this hike.  It was relatively flat.

Our guide was informative about each portion of the trail and as we eased away from the canal he told us the next part would be challenging.  We would climb 100 meters with an 80% incline.  He encouraged everyone to step slowly.  I fell to the middle of the pack, not as fast as most of the men but the fastest woman for that day.  The dogs were the fastest in the group, racing ahead and bounding up even the steepest portions.  We took a break at the top of the 100 meters to let everyone catch their breath.  The next section would be a steady climb which was easier but the altitude was increasing with each step. This steady climb was a longer section as well so we were able to hike without a break until we came to a bowl.  This bowl was not the crater but it looked as if it could be and again it was covered in grasses.  Another break was in order and then the toughest parts of the climb.

I gazed up to our goal and the guide pointed out the path.  It was steep and as he described it, "It is interesting."  He couldn't describe how difficult this portion would be.  I never doubted making it to the top but I related to Ina who said, "Why do I feel like I smoked 6 packs of cigarettes?" I might not have felt quite that bad but breathing was hard when you were climbing straight up.  Portions felt like stairs and others felt like they were on an 80% incline again or maybe more.  The source of the water crossed the trail and I had to navigate around it.  At times I was clenching the grass and at times I just let it grace my fingers gently as I went by.

The summit provided the promised views of the valley.  It was difficult to photograph but I still have the picture in my mind.  We were not at the highest summit around but we could see them all.  We could also see Quito sprawled out in the valley.  The crater is covered in trees all the way to the rim and I am surprised, shocked by this.  It seems odd to have trees growing at such an elevation.  We celebrate our victory with sweet tea, banana cake and sandwiches.  We take the time to pose at the peak for pictures before descending down a different path.

On the journey down we see wild horses who must be so content living in these grass-covered hills.  The dogs didn't catch anything today but are still full of energy on the way down. This climb only makes me long to climb even more of the surrounding peaks but my visit is too short.  I will have to return.
The canyon where we had hiked to the waterfall

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The top of Pasochoa still in the distance


The crater

4,220- no problem



Bromeliads

Cotopaxi